The Ephemeral and Eternal Luxury of Wine
by Seema Tikare
Wine is the ultimate luxury. It is like art in many ways. Only once you have food, shelter, clothes and other necessities, can you begin to contemplate the ancillary pleasures in life. Take for example the statue of Winged Victory from Samothrace. It is one of the most celebrated statues in the world, carved in the second century BCE and displayed in the Louvre since 1884. It embodies movement and freedom in its expressive lines and curves, and conveys triumph. Made from cold white marble, it is warm and alive.
Wine is similar in that at its core, it is grape juice that has been converted by simple yeasts from a sugary liquid to an alcoholic one. And yet, it is also warm and alive. It brings anticipation, aromatic and flavor sensations, joy in some contexts, comfort in others. And often is the highlight of a memorable evening. But alas, unlike art, it does not endure. The pleasures of wine are fleeting. Given how much time and effort is put into the making of wine, there is a tragic aspect to it.
One must spend years tending, training, cultivating vines until the fruit is ready for wine making. Then the fruit must be picked at exactly the right time in the right way before it spends weeks or even months being transformed into wine. Yet, a bottle can be drunk by 4 people inside an hour. This is viewed as the ultimate luxury for us.
However, in the past and even in the present in most parts of the wine-drinking world, it is a quotidian part of life. It is like salt to a meal in many ways. One can do without it, but add it as seasoning to a meal and the meal most certainly tastes better. And this has been the case for over 8,000 years. The first evidence of wine has been found in amphorae from the Republic of Georgia dating to 6,000 BCE. Since then, wine has often been depicted in art being served to kings and queens, at banquets and in all manner of celebrations. It is an integral part of recorded history. But more importantly, it is also a part of life for humble meals of bread and stew or meats roasted over a fire under an open sky. It is something even farmers and workers drank. It was certainly safer for many centuries than water and therefore, was used to purify it in olden times.
So, going back to my original assertion, how did wine become such a luxury today? Why do we not think of it as any other part of the meal? Veggies, carbs, proteins and wine! In Italy, where I spent a summer in 2018, it is absolutely standard to have a glass with dinner. One does not agonize over which wine to serve or how much to spend or what the perfect temperature might be. It is simply to be imbibed. To be fair, good wine in Italy can be had for as little as 5 euros a bottle, but nonetheless, I love their no-nonsense approach to it.
Do we treat it differently because we often don’t live in areas where wine is made locally, so we don’t just pick it up at the local green grocer? It is because we live such hectic, rushed lives that we can’t sit back and enjoy a meal and a glass of wine every day? It is our puritanical streak in this country as espoused by Max Weber’s protestant work ethic?
I honestly don’t know the answer. It is of course both a fleeting pleasure and an enduring part of culture - it is ephemeral and eternal at the same time. And I believe it needs to be demystified. Drink it, enjoy it, don’t fetishize it. Don’t worry if it will pair perfectly if you just want to enjoy a glass. Buy what you like and can afford (though, know that I will judge harshly if it is white zinfandel!) and embrace the experience of a life well lived with moments of supreme enjoyment and relaxation.
Sláinte!
Ephemeral, but worth it. This is your chance to taste Iconic Wines.
